Surf Libre Globe Tour

Never Ending Global Tour, the Freezer Crossing.

Go learn? Quando impari? Quando devi inventarti interfacce nuove, quando il tuo bagaglio culturale non ha argomenti per relazionarti col tuo vicino o con l’ambiente,

Quando giri con persone complementari piuttosto che simili a te. Ma cosa impari? Solo quello che vuoi imparare.. ma chi?

Freezer Magazine per celebrare il nomadismo ha organizzato i primi di dicembre 1999 una spedizione nel sud della Francia atlantica. Nei cottages del “Temp Libre” di “Le Moliets” mescoliamo surfers nostrani delle due coste, nomads con amici e tipe.

Si intrecciano stili di vita simili ma diversi, modi tranquilli e impetuosi, il più grosso é anche il più sbarbo, 19anni e viene da Perth, Australia dove surfa con il suo vicino di casa Taj Burrow.. il più vecchio é 20 anni che gira… il “padrone di casa” é una persona molto speciale.. anche le ragioni individuali per questa destinazione sono diverse.

Go learn now..

DAY 1 We begin the journey in Genova at Ettore’s house where Davide, Marcello, luca and I start to pack Luca’s car. The big question was could we fit 9 boards and five blokes into a “Fiat Bravo”.

Anyway, load the car and hit the road to Varazze where we pick up our fifth passenger Gianluca. He had to laugh when we pulled up in the carpark. successfully fit everything into the car and continue the long drive to Hossegor.

Just passed the French/Italian border with me and Luca in the front and the rest asleep in the back i look to Luca wodering what that smell was in the car. As I look at him I realise that he has his dick out of his pants, and I asked him if this was the cause of that horrible stench.

After that moment we named Luca “puzzacazzo” Fioravanti. After many hours cramped in the car we finally reached Hossegor.

Rocked up at the Gravier to find it perfect offshore and about 3 metres. As Ettore hadn’t arrived yet everyone sent messages on the phone to him telling him the surf was smoking. Ettore replied very pissed off as he and the others were still in the van 5/6 hours behind us.

We all decided to go to Le Moliets to unpack.

We unpack things in our luxury villas at this place called “Temp Libre” in “Le Moliets” and go to our host for a bight to eat before checking out the local break for an afternoon surf.

By now the wind was onshore the water was like ice but the waves where rideable.

As I only had a 3/2 wetsuit I new my surf trip was go to be a very fucking cold one. Ettore finally decides to join us in the water. the waves where fun but we were all hoping for better. While getting changed some French cunts where having a little argument with our mate “pc” who accidentally ran over this guy and fucked up his board. The little frog fuck demanded 300francs from Luca so he could repair his board. One of the french guys was getting a bit pissed off and decided to get a little bit heavy.

If rokma hadn’t told us to be calm I think one of us would have smashed the fuck out of this cunt.

But Luca paid the money and we went home as we had to get ready for the big dinner that our host Marco had organized for our arrival.

The dinner was a congregation of Italian and French surfing association.

I think our host intended everyone to mingle with everyone from both associations but we were all stoned and pigheaded to do so. The dinner was great but I was too fucked to stay awake and couldn’t wait for every cunt to go to sleep so “bouni notti rigazzi”.

Day 2

Wake up not so early and raid our hosts house for breakfast before going to check the local break for surf.

We decide to go surfing in the fiat as rokma and the others were to lazy to get out of bed. No one could decide on a place to surf so we drove around for hours checking spots and wasting time.

Eventually we all hop in the big van and go to surf the Gravier. it wasn’t so great but at least it was surf.

The Gravier sorted out the men from the women. Ettore and I surfed the main peak while the others surfed the 2 foot closeout beach break. But in the end I think we paid the price for this.

Thank god I was traveling with Italians because there is no better food than a big bowl of pasta to end the day.

After dinner all the guys tried to kick my arse but, luckily for me, 5 Italians do not have the power of one Australian.

Day 3 Wake up early and check the local break. After an hour of arguing we decide to surf Le Moilets.

For the first few hours it was smoking but when rokma and the east coast crew finally decide to join us, the waves turn horrible, non the less they still got some photos. HOW COLD IS COLD?, I think iI have lost an inch of my penis already.

After dinner I prepared myself for the nightly “LETS BEAT UP THE ONLY AUSTRALIAN”

Day 4 Finally Rokma decides to wake up early and goes to check Moliets. He comes back wakes everyone up and we all go surfing.

The surf was smoking and I think that it was a little bit big for some of those women. Rokma was happy because he finally got some good photos.

Later that afternoon we drove to Hossegor in the van to surf the Gravier. The waves were big and the water was freezing.

Think I had the worst surf of the trip and was topped off when I come in to find my clothes and the van gone. So after the 30 minute of waiting in a towel i now have no penis. GRAZIE (porcodio)!

Day 5

Wake up early to check the surf to find out that we cant see the water as there is too much fog. Maybe the fog followed rokma from Milano. We decide to go to Hossegor for the final surf before going home.

We went back packed the shit in the car said goodbye and thank you to our wonderful host Marco Menini, then hit the road to Cap Breton.

The surf was real good but the locals made it hard for us to enjoy. To Italy now only to leave Ettore behind with his best friend Emi in the van.

CONCLUSION I think for future reference when organizing a surf trip, for a surf trip to run smoothly, you have to pick people on the same wavelength.

Not a guy with girlfriend (emi), a psyco (ettore), a straight edge (davide), an addict (rokma), a babbo (marcello), a hippy (matteo), a puzzola (luca), a chicken (gianluca) and never take a ciccione kangaroo (jake) or he’ll take all your waves, sissies…

(ndr: How about some real women for next trip, mate!?)